Monday, April 5, 2010

Safe and sound

Bon soir! I'm back from Togo! Wow. It was a pretty ridiculous adventure. I just want to shake my head and laugh every time I think about the trip. There will definitely be a post concerning the trip soon hopefully! (I know i also promised a good post on my northern trip, among other topics. "I'm coming!" as the Ghanaians always say. They say that when they are telling you to wait or that they'll be right there. But the real question is, are you coming at the speed of a train or the speed of a snail, as Zadie Smith wrote in White Teeth. For the Ghanaians... the answer would be at the speed of a snail. A very sick, severely handicapped snail. Hopefully I'll get my posts up sooner than that. I've been getting excellent internet connection from my room lately...knock on wood. I'm so backed up on blog entries. eek!)

We got home from Togo a day early. Reason being? We ran out of money. Well...we had money. We had plenty of cedis, we just didn't have enough CFAs (Togo's currency) to get us through another day. =P But it was a great relief to be back in Ghana and you'll understand why when I post about my adventures.

We had Friday and Monday off because of Easter, so today I got to relax a bit. Went to the mall with my friend Jean to withdraw money and exchange traveler's checks, but the bank was closed and the atm was down. Note to self, don't ever go to the mall on a holiday. I felt like I was at costco. It was sooo crowded. Jean and I chilled at the bookstore. I read Marjane Satrapi's book Embroideries, and started reading The Year of Living Biblically by AJ Jacks. Both = frikkin hilarious. Plan to finish the latter when I get back to the States. Then Jean and I watched Shutter Island. Should be named Shudder Island, i think. Freaked me out a bit but in the end i didn't think it was all THAT bad just because it boggled my mind. But i wouldn't watch it a second time. It reminded me of the old movie Momento and the tv show Lost.

Time to end off the semester strong. I only have two more weeks of lectures. Can you believe that? I must soak up every moment of it! Tomorrow's my 8 hour day of lecturing fun. wish me luck.


Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Reunited with love

Rumor has it, there's a piano practice room in the music department. It never occurred to me to search for one because I didn't think the department was big enough to hold practice rooms. That and i've only heard a pianos playing as accompaniments for singing classes. Today I decided to go on my quest for the practice room. I walked all around the department, asked a bunch of random people, visited a bunch of wrong locations, and then...

I cracked open a door to which I was directed and had always assumed to be just another office at the end of a discrete hallway and a burst of cool air greeted me...along with.......lots and lots of pianos! *Swoon* where has this room been all my life! It's like a secret club, and only if you're determined enough to play piano, will you be able to find it. It's this small room with about fifteen digital pianos crammed into it. There were lots of people there. I grabbed an empty spot, put on the headphones and touched a keyboard for the first time in 2 1/2 months. I think that's the longest I've ever gone without playing a piano. I messed around on it for an hour and a half before my next class. It was sooo nice to play again. (Kind of wish I brought some music now.) Well after this belated discovery, you'll know where I'll be in my spare time! =P

Speaking of spare time...I've come to realize that I don't have as much of it as I'd like to. I don't know how it happened, but I'm taking six classes, giving me 20 hours of class a week. Ok. I know there are some crazies out there who take a buttload of classes and end up with 20 units somehow or the other, but that's not my thing. Iono what happened. Maybe it just seems exhausting because I have 8 hours of class from 9:30AM to 7:30PM on Tuesdays and 6 hours on Thursdays, and I come home feeling so exhausted. Anyway, it's the end of a loooong day.

Looking forward to the long Easter weekend. We don't get spring break, but we get this Friday and Monday off. I'm going to travel to Togo and hopefully Benin this weekend. =) Time to brush up on my French! ( i knew it'd be useful someday...)


Monday, March 29, 2010

Handoff Ceremony

I'm supposed to be writing a portion of an NGO manual right now, but I think I'll blog instead.

Last night was the social work department's handoff ceremony, where the current department executives pass their duty over to the new executives. Being a part of the ceremony made me feel all the more integrated into the school and my department. I can't really say I played a role in electing the newbs because the department wouldn't let foreign students vote last week. A lot of boring speeches, but yummy food and of course dancing afterwards. Music and dance is such a large part of ghanaian culture, that at almost every event there will be music and dancing. That's one of the main reasons why i love Ghanaian culture. The rich artsy aspect of it. I especially love it when they bust out into traditional dance.


Some pictures:

The girls getting ready



Dance dance


(PS...LOOK HOW MANY BLOG ENTRIES I'M WRITING! Hopefully I'm giving you a better picture of my experience here. )

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Makola

I went to Makola in Accra today to do some shopping. It was MADNESS. Stand after stand of random STUFF. Clothes, kitchen supplies, food, books, fabric, cosmetics, everrrything all crammed together for blocks and blocks and floors and floors. Being Obruni is ridiculous and makes the experience so overwhelming. Everyone is calling out to you, grabbing your arm, shouting racist comments, stopping to chat and ask for your number, talking about you with other people in Twi, and worst of all, RIPPING YOU OFF. Grrr. On top of all that, you have to bargain for your life! Even though the end price is still cheaper than what you'd pay in America, it is infuriating to know that it is worth so much less and they know it; they're just taking advantage of my naivety. There are so many things i want to look at/buy at the market, but it's so overwhelming and stressful that after a half hour, i just want to escape by tro tro and go home. Anyway, i ended up getting a lot of fabric and a black clutch for nice events. Here's the pretty fabric i bought.

(left to right: one yard for 3 cedi; two yards for 4 cedi; and one yard for 5 cedi. Was completely ripped off due to some miscommunication issues on the third piece of fabric. Boo.)

Friday, March 26, 2010

Since everyone else is doing it...


I feel like I just got a facelift. I don't know what a facelift actually feels like, but I'd imagine it's something like what I'm feeling now. I got my head braided/corn rowed. I wasn't planning on getting it done cause it's so cliche for a foreigner to come to Africa and get braids. Everyone was doing it. And it's sorta a hit and miss thing. It either looks good on you, or it really doesn't. But alas. i figure...when else would i do this? and for $14! So off i went after class, dragging my friend Phebe along with me who helped me get an awesome deal. One woman started braiding at 4:30pm. Halfway through, there were three women crowded over me, braiding away. If it weren't for the team work, I probably would have been at the salon for much longer. Lucky me got to leave at 9:30pm!! Yeah. i sat there for 5 hours, staring off into space, listening to radio songs replay for the 3rd time from neighboring bars. I feel like i wasted 5 hours of my life. It turned out pretty cool though. And I have long hair again. =) I can't do much with it now styling-wise because my scalp is in a lot of pain, but in a few days it'll be alright. Gonna have fun trying to sleep tonight. The experts have been advising that i pop a few advils before bed.
(Yeah, I look kinda psycho. but it's about the hair, remember...)





Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Two sides to every story

I must write this blog entry to correct certain perceptions about Ghana, and the whole of Africa for that matter, before I can delve into some nitty gritty subjects to ensure that I don’t fuel the misconceptions that many possess of Africa. Going straight to the point, I feel like many people have this idea that Africa is a crazy, underdeveloped, unsafe, savage-ridden place. “Africa! HIV/AIDS! Tribal wars! Pirates! Child soldiers!” I blame the media. They never paint the complete picture. You see the commercial on tv concerning some NGO, as a Westerner walks through a littered and impoverished Africa holding a malnourished baby, asking for donations to help sustain the nation; and the national geographic magazines with the artsy fartsy pictures of tribal women with rings around their necks, and odd piercings, holding giant spears. What they don’t show are places like Accra, Ghana. Where there is a huge Holiday Inn right down the street, a Hilton in the making, the paved roads congested with traffic, the giant mall with stores selling items a middle class American wouldn’t even consider buying, the kid in my hostel who drives a bright orange corvette around school, and the gated mansions complete with a guard in front, personal chauffeurs, and maids.

Africa isn’t just one large pathetic war faring, impoverished, ancestor-worshipping, fearful, disease ridden continent. People hear I am in Ghana and they call me crazy. Yeah it’s Africa, but it’s not like I’m living in a hut in some rural village practicing cannibalism with savages. My professors are brilliant, my classmates are hard workers, and my Ghanaian friends are young adults who bob their heads to the beat of Akon and Rihanna. One American girl got sick about a month ago and was going in and out of the hospital. Her mom was extremely worried, so one of the students contacted the mother and explained the situation in full detail in hopes to comfort her. The student explained that the hospital is exactly like one that you would find in America; it is clean, the instruments are sterile, the equipments are advanced, the doctors and nurses are professional, competent and qualified, the care and attention are high quality, etc. O thank goodness, the mother said, I was afraid she was in the middle of nowhere lying in a cot under a tent, with nothing but the dirt on the ground.

We’re not the only ones guilty of ignorance. As you can imagine, many misconceptions exist about America, the Land of the Free. A lot of people I meet here are eager, sometimes desperate to go to America. Even many educated people believe that the moment you step onto American soil, the gates of opportunity are open wide for you. They believe that even the American poor could live as kings in Ghana. They believe that everyone in America owns a cell phone, ipod, and laptop. Some don’t even believe that homelessness exists in America. (Hobos literally sleep next door, outside my apartment in Berkeley!) Of course not all Ghanaians believe in such an easy and heavenly America. Many do realize that you must work very hard to get the top, and that unfavorable issues present themselves such as racism and whatnot. Sometimes I wonder why they even want to come to America. Yeah, there are many luxuries, but unless you are already filthy rich upon arriving, you have to work your butt off. Another point (of many that I’ve collected), is that Americans are independent minded, pull-yourself-up-by the-bootstraps types of people. There isn’t as strong a sense of community in America as there is in Ghana, where people are regarded as family and get along with each other peacefully. There are many amazing qualities Ghana possesses that aren’t easily found in America. But, as my PT and I discussed, many Ghanaians don’t realize it until they actually go to America and experience it for themselves.

Of course stereotypical beliefs of other cultures exist because they hold some truth. The poverty in Ghana are found at your doorstep. Next to the gated mansion with a personal guard, is a row of simple shacks. Next to the newly waxed BMW stuck in traffic is the 20-year-old girl balancing a bin of plantain chips on her head, weaving through the cars making a living. Through the windows of a large comfortable, air-conditioned tour bus, lay straw-roofs and mud huts in the north. Likewise, though poverty, corruption, violence, prostitution and the sort exist in America, there are multi-million dollar houses and the seemingly perfect nuclear families, wealth, fame, and overabundance in the nation as well. It’s important to realize that both dichotomies exist. Too quickly we gather up the biased information we are given and allow them to unrightfully assess and judge particular cultures/communities/parts of the world. Such thinking often plagues us with ethnocentric and belittling thoughts/actions towards others. I can’t say it is entirely our personal fault since we learn a lot of this from what is seen on tv or heard on the radio and the news and such. I guess the best thing for us to do in combating our lopsided views is to simply educate ourselves.

Harmatten

When i left my internship on monday, i noticed that the climate had drastically changed since the morning time. I couldn't figure it out. Was it fog? smog? a fire? It seriously looks like a mild San Francisco/Berkeley fog outside. It can't be fog because it's much too warm. And if it's smog...shoot son, we're in trouble. I discovered today that this climate has a name -- harmatten. It is a dry, dusty wind that blows over here from the Sahara desert. So it's DUST! Very tiny particles of dust. Apparently harmatten is supposed to occur in december through february during the dry season, but it didn't come this year. And now here it is, as we're entering the wet season. I hear the harmatten we're experiencing now isn't as extreme as it normally is. During the dry season, it is extremely hot and dry and the nights are very cold. The weather is slightly cooler now a days just because the dust dims the sun. But it feels extra humid. bleh. When harmatten rolls around, the common cold comes along with it. So many people have been getting sick, but it's a 24-hour thing i think. Glenda got it two nights ago and she was bundled up in a jacket, a giant fleece blanket, a down blanket, and a scarf...and it was 85 degrees. But she was fine the next day. =P i'm coming down with something too. Nothing hospital worthy though. Just a sore throat and my body's a bit achy. But i figure, if the Ghanaians have it, i don't have much to worry about because I know it's something expected and normal...

On a different note, i wrote the fasted 8-paged paper in my life. In two and a half hours, with a half hour to spare before class. AND it wasn't all BS, for those of you who are ready to say "o yeah? well i can write one in ____." It was a report on the 6-day northern trip. At least I'll save time writing about it on my blog.